Showing posts with label Ketchikan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ketchikan. Show all posts

Saturday, June 8, 2013

May 2013

(This blog entry was originally started on my last trip at the beginning of May. It has taken me a few weeks to complete it, which is why it all ready seems dated.) 

I have been meaning to write this for months, but there always seems to be something else that is more pressing; something that requires immediate attention; or a brain that just needs to do nothing.

Right now, I am sitting on the deck of the Matanuska, one of the ferries that operates on the Alaska Marine Highway.  This is my second ferry ride this week.  Thursday I took the ferry from Juneau to Sitka.  It was a four hour ride on what everyone called “the fast ferry”.  This ferry doesn’t run in the winter, and I was told I probably wouldn’t like the winter ride very much.  The weather the day I went to Sitka was gray and rainy.  Imagine that.  Gray and rainy skies in Southeast Alaska.  Typical.
In Juneau there was still snow on the ground.  They had just received about 4 inches of snow a few days before I arrived.  A quick calendar check means that was April 27th.  Yes, it is supposed to be spring, but it just hasn’t arrived in most parts of the state.  However, in Sitka, even with the rain and cloudy skies the temperature was in the 40’s.  It felt like a heat wave.  I didn’t see any wildlife on the ferry ride.  After all, this is a trip through the Inner Passage where whale watching is a prime activity.  But the scenery was still fantastic.




You can follow the ship’s progress via GPS.
The next day I flew to Ketchikan, and now I’m off to my next destination.  Which is why I am sitting on the ferry waiting to depart.  I think we leave in about an hour.  It’s a 14 hour trip, and I will arrive at my destination around 7 AM.  On the ferry you can stay on the observation deck and just doze here while you wait to arrive at your destination, or you can get a cabin. 
I reserved a cabin since I will be staying on board overnight, and I kind of like the idea of private bathrooms.  Essentially, this is the poor man’s Alaskan cruise.  As long as you aren’t putting a car on the ferry.  But as a pedestrian, it’s cheaper travel this way then on the plane.  And actually easier for me to get some work done too.  I find working on the airplanes next to impossible, and even in the airport my time is so fragmented that it’s hard to accomplish very much.


Today I had a little time to explore Ketchikan.  This is my 4th trip here.  The last two times I did not have a rental car, and the weather was so cold and wet that it was no fun to explore.  Today it’s about 55 degrees.  I can’t describe how nice it feels to sit outside at 55 degrees.  Without a coat or hat.  I understand they are predicting snow for Anchorage today, so this is like paradise.
The town of Ketchikan doesn’t have the same appeal to me that Sitka does, but the surrounding area is equally as beautiful.  


away from the tourist area of Ketchikan

Ketchikan is known as the First City of Alaska. And like so many towns it clings to the surrounding mountains.  This is a view of downtown from the port where the Cruise ships arrive.  The tourist season is just starting and there have only been a couple of ships this year.  The port holds 4 ships and I think they get about 8 - 12 ships a week during the season.  Sitka only gets 1 -2 although they used to get more.  The decrease in the amount of visitors has had a huge financial impact on the town economy.


These are the shops you would see as you disembark from the cruise ships.  The stores are just starting to open and many of them are still vacant.
Ketchikan is full of totem poles. There is a park called Totem Park.  I missed it on this visit, so it will wait for my next visit. As a side note, when I called home last night at 9:30 PM it was pitch black in Ketchikan, but Steve said it was still bright daylight at home.  Interesting what several hundred miles can do.


This used to be the town’s red light district, but now it’s full of shops.  Not one of them was open today, and it is Saturday.  I saw a seal head in this little water area, but wasn’t quick enough to snap a photo.



Anchorage and Juneau (and parts north) still have snow, but in SE Alaska the wild roses are getting ready to bloom.


I watched this Kingfisher do his thing as he successfully caught (and ate) some little fish.  At least there isn't any ice on the water like there is in Anchorage and parts north.  Heck, even Juneau had several inches of new snow on the ground...



One gripe I have about the Ketchikan airport is they hold you hostage.
The boat on the far side of the channel is the ferry that take you to and from the airport.  For a car and passenger to go across I think it’s $15.  One way.  Pedestrians are $10 one way.  There is a break if you purchase a round-trip ticket.  I guess that’s one way for a municipality to make some extra funds.  After all, this is another community (like most of them) that you can only get to by air or water.

The ferry is at dock in the background.  The ship in the forefront is a fishing vessel getting ready for the start of the season.

The past several months have seen many changes.  Tara and Sky moved into the new house, and a few months ago, moved into a new place of their own.  We still see them frequently, which is good, because I don’t like to miss out on my Nana/Mom time.
Jake left for the Alaska Military Youth Academy at the beginning of October.




He came home for Christmas, as did Joe.  Joe did not return to Hawaii, but went to Ohio and transferred to Kent State. 
We were preparing to take Jake back to the Academy and I tried to get the guys together for a group picture.  Don’t they look like a happy bunch of fellows?


And then a certain someone walked into the room... Guesses?  And no – it isn’t the dog.



Our own version of Three Men and a Baby.



I continue to enjoy my job.  Not only do I receive a lot of personal satisfaction from it, but it’s hard to complain when it gives me the opportunity to travel and see such amazing things.
Steve recently changed jobs, and for once, he doesn’t travel.
Rosey and Riley are fine.  It’s break-up season in most of Alaska, where the snow SHOULD be melting and the ice SHOULD be going away.  What’s left behind is mud.  And where there is mud there are muddy dogs.  Unfortunately, the carpet in the house is very light beige.  Keeping the dogs in the garage for a little before they come into the house helps.  A little.  Even the walls have mud on them.  I can only guess it happens when the dogs run up and down the steps, or shake themselves off.
Actually, one of the worst parts of break-up season is the smell. As the days get longer (we’re at about 17 hours of daylight now) and the ice does melt, all the dog poop from all around the city becomes exposed.  And let’s just say that most people aren’t very good at cleaning up their back yards.  The smell in the neighborhoods over the past few weeks has been fairly horrific. Which is really interesting because the air quality report for Anchorage was published about the same time the air became so fragrant.  Apparently, Anchorage has great air quality, one of the best in the nation.  Fairbanks, on the other hand, not-so-much.  The burning of fuel sources (wood, pellet, oil) has really diminished the air quality.  Hard to believe since there isn’t anything around Fairbanks.
I had the opportunity to go to Fairbanks, just for a day, in the middle of March.  It was bright and sunny, but so cold.  It was -19 (a warm day for them) but the wind was to bitter cold to do any walking around.  Even the local residents said "oh no, you don't want to be outside".  I took them for their word.  Just the walk from the airport terminal to the rental car parking lot was brutal.  But I did see some lovely mountain ranges on the flight out.


During winter, the sun doesn’t really get above the horizon until about 10 AM. This picture was taken in November around 9:30 in the morning.


Now it’s light at 5 AM.
Right around Christmas, and around the time when there were talks of a government shut-down, some enterprising criminal in Anchorage started to steal mailboxes.  I mean the big metal things that are usually anchored on street corners and in front of buildings.  Those thefts prompted this in front of our post office –



I know, that’s a little hard to read – but it says Out of Order - Do not Use.


Somehow that really seemed to describe our government at that time – Out Of Order.
I’m going to put this away for now.  The ferry leaves soon and I want to be able to whale watch.  I probably won’t have the internet connection to post this for a couple of days.  If I’m lucky I’ll have some good pictures to put with it. (addendum: I never saw any whales.  The trip was a tiring one and I actually took a long nap in my cabin. But I did see one large body glide through the water that probably couldn't have been anything else but a whale)


Random photos:
Drill Team Competition Day


Graduation day! One cord is for being in the Honor’s group and the other is for obtaining his GED.  In Alaska you can obtain both your high school diploma and your GED.


I am a nurse, even if it looks more like I’m an IT person. I wrote for a small amount of grant funds to do some statewide training with another co-worker.  To reach a statewide audience there has to be a fair amount of IT involvement. I just didn't realize it would be me!



As the days lengthened, the ravens started to pair up.  Another way to tell spring was here was the arrival of the seagulls.  They showed up in the beginning of April, long before the first robins will make it to Anchorage.
On the ferry from Ketchikan to Kake.
The accommodations are Spartan, but hey, I have my own private head.



Here’s a barge bringing goodies to some remote village. I hope it's got some good stuff on it!
 

In Kake, the weather was 50 + degrees.  The snow is long gone, and I got to do a little beachcombing.  I’m hoping that no one is still using this swing.  The beaches around here were just littered with beach glass. Some of it very worn by the sea, but unfortunately, much of it didn’t look too old at all.





Beach front property at low tide.
The views are spectacular.
The morning I left, eagles sang me a wake-up song outside of my window.  It was worse than listening to a cat fight at midnight.  I walked to the airport and saw these bright spots of yellow:

Jack-in-a-pulpit.  A sure sign of spring so I knew that somewhere in Alaska spring had arrived. 
What I didn’t see until the plane was taxing down the runway (and let me say how happy I was that it was the big plane again.  It was a full flight with 7 passengers – including the little baby) were the bears.  I had been sitting outside on the luggage rack enjoying the sun and I found out that Mama black bear and 2 yearling cubs were doing the same thing about 200 yards away from me.  Of course, my camera was nowhere to be found.  They were the first bears I’ve seen in Alaska that haven’t been on the other side of a fence.  A really big STRONG fence.

Back home in Anchorage, I think spring may have arrived.  The temperatures hit 50 and the snow is gone off most the sidewalks.  However, places under trees and in the shadows still have several inches to contend with. And of course there is the daylight.  Last night it was midnight and you could still see outside, like twilight.  Up at 5:30 AM and the sun is all ready high in the sky.  It’s hard to believe that the longest day of the year is almost upon us when spring seems to have completely skipped us.  We are heading straight into summer. I only wish break-up season was over so we didn’t have to deal with the mud.

(Addendum #2 - spring did not arrive.  Instead, we had measurable amounts of snow on May 17th, making this the longest winter on record. By the following week, the weather was in the high 60's and we launched into summer.  The only spring we talked about this year was the one we never had)

Monday, September 3, 2012

Bigger and Bigger

My sister tells me that I do things big.  I don't know if I agree with that.  Planning a missionary trip to an African nation to deliver mosquito netting to prevent malaria (a trip recently undertaken by a small high school) is doing something big.

I think what we have been experiencing is a rolling tide of change, and we are adapting in a hopefully positive manner, to those changes.

When I came back from New York, the priority was to find a new place to live as our rental house was up for sale.  So we bought a house.




Oh, and before we moved in, I started a new job -

I know it looks like I'm part of an Olympic Synchronized Swim Team, but actually, I am now a Community Health Nurse.  The agency I am working for provides services for people who experience disabilities. I think its a pretty good fit for me, because so much of my work history has been in this particular field. And I must admit, I am really happy to be back in the not-for-profit working world.

We have been in the house for about a month and for the most part we are settled in.  There are closets that need to be re-arranged; some furniture that still needs to be purchased; a doggie door to be installed; but it is comfortable and most importantly, it's ours.

During the interview for my new job, the Director of Nursing asked "so how do you feel about flying in small planes and then traveling by snowmobile or 4-wheeler to a remote village?"  I can honestly say I have never been asked that in an interview before.  But, this is an agency that provides services statewide.  And this is a BIG state.  Many of the people I visit are within driving distance, but there are some that live farther away and I need to visit them on a quarterly basis.  To do that, I have to get on the plane.  So I did.

Last Sunday, I got on a plane and flew about 800 miles south to Ketchikan.
note the cruise ships.  they tell me about 20 per week arrive in town

my lunch time view

 The weather for SE Alaska was phenomenal.  It was about 70 degrees and bright and sunny.  Since it was Sunday, and I wasn't at work yet, I took a nice long walk.  Ketchikan reminds me of Juneau in the way that the housing seems to be battling for space in the crowded downtown.  The older buildings are stacked upon each other, reminiscent of the nursery rhyme about the little crooked house.  There is a creek or stream that runs through the main part of town and the houses and shops are stacked all around it.  It makes for a nice little trail.




The Trail I walked

 When I got off the plane,I got in my rental car and drove down the ramp to get on a ferry.  The only way to get from the airport to the mainland is by ferry.

Totems outside the hotel

part of the trail

Creekside Shops

with all the beauty, there are signs of poverty and neglect

Salmon do go up this stream




Monday night, I flew into Sitka.  It was grey and raining, quite a difference from the previous day.  Sitka has a very important place in Alaskan history and a very strong Russian heritage.  One of the first people I saw when I left the airport was a Russian Orthodox Priest.




Downtown Sitka


Baranov's Castle site.  Originally a Tlinget village, then a Russian "palace"or gov't buidling, and later the first site of the US Gov't in Alaska.

Russian Church in Sitka


Sitka did not seem to have the same frenetic and crazed building that Ketchikan did.  Maybe its because there isn't the same struggle for flat land between the coast and the mountains.  Sitka has a lovely harbor and a great downtown, perfect for walking.  Most of the town area is flat and although there are mountains, they don't rise right out of the ocean like they do on so many of the other islands.  In fact, I thought it looked like a great place to live until I remembered that milk cost about $6.00 per gallon and gas was at a low of $4.25 per gallon.  And everything needs to be shipped in. The only thing local is the seafood.

Tuesday night I flew into Juneau.  It was another night of pouring rain, but hey, this is SE Alaska. Part of the Tongass National Forest, or America's Rainforest.  So, why would I expect anything but rain?
Cruise Ships arriving in Juneau. Crappy hotel = great views

About 4 ships would arrive everyday and leave the next

After the rain, I was lucky and the sun came out for the rest of my visit.  It was glorious!

I took a side trip about 17 miles out of town to the Shrine of St. Theresa

They have a spot overlooking the water. There is a land-bridge going from the lodge out to the church.This is a view from the land-bridge back to the lodge.


Walking to the church I met a woman telling me there were whales out there "bubble-fishing"

The Shrine



Can you see all the Inuksuit?

An outdoor altar that looks out upon the water and the Inuksuk



I came upon a sign that said, "Don't touch the fish".  Then I realized this was a stream full of swimming salmon.  I took the video and looked further down the stream.  It quickly disappeared into the black undergrowth of this old growth forest.  Suddenly, all I could think about were bears.  I had no desire to meet up with any bears while they tried to catch their supper, so I departed.

I spent a couple of beautiful days in Juneau and Friday I took a small plane to Kake.  And I do mean small.
note the single prop.  I climbed up onto the wing and then into the cabin.  I wound up sitting next to the pilot.  The only other passengers were a man and his 2 year old son.  They sat in the next seat behind me.  The rest of the plane was filled with freight.  And a good reason to go back on a diet - they ask how much you weigh so they can figure out how much to load.

It was a great day for a flight


The view from the home I visited.  That is Baranof Island in the distance.  It's the 10th largest US Island and only slightly smaller than the state of Delaware.

Grave Island is to the right.  It's where people are buried in weighted coffins so they don't float away.  But it's full, so they are now starting to bury people on the littler island to the left

Houses are battered by the elements.  The cost of building is astronomical.  Upkeep is frequently minimal.


The pier appears to be in better shape than much of the town

The Kake airport.  I did not bring a drink on the plane with me, but did not realize that with smaller airlines, there were no such concerns.  No security x-rays or pat-downs.  Heck, they didn't even ask for ID.

The plane back to Juneau was slightly larger.  There were also more passengers.  4 of us.

More humpback whales bubble-fishing.  The pilot actually circled the pod of whales.  Guess when you are in a smaller plane you don't have to worry so much about sticking to a strict flight pattern.  We got to see both orcas and humpbacks from the air.

Return to Juneau

There wasn't much to do in Kake. My plane arrived at 9:15 and there wouldn't be a flight to Juneau until 5:00 PM.  There isn't a shopping center, or mall.  No real downtown to look for touristy stuff.  Just people trying to eek out a living where there is no economy, no jobs.  And milk here costs about $8.00 a gallon.  Just about everyone drinks the powdered stuff.  Almost everything here comes from Sitka.  Need to go to the doctor?  fly to Sitka, grocery shop?  fly to Sitka.  Dentist - well.  Actually, I met a pediatric dentist who is from Seattle.  She opened a clinic in Ketchikan, and does home visits 2x a year to get to the kiddos in some of these remote areas.  But if you are an adult - you fly to Sitka.  As we waited to board the plane, we watched a family unload their Costco purchases into their minivan.  They make the trip monthly.  Here there is no running to the store because you need an ingredient that you forgot to purchase.

I think I flew close to 2,000 miles in the past week, never leaving the state.  In about 2 months, I get to repeat it all again.  I think I will take some extra undies in my luggage.  At that time of year I'm likely to get weathered in somewhere.

Now, it's time to get to bed so I can get to work tomorrow and chart on everything that happened last week.  When I do get up, I hope the rain has stopped.  I do not live in the rainforest, but you wouldn't know that from the weather we have had this summer.  But at least it is still raining and not snowing.  Our temps are down into the 50's now and the leaves are turning yellow and falling off the trees.  Now that it is September, it won't be long until we have snow, or Termination Dust, back on the mountains.

Until next time!